The Old Vine Conference: Tasting at 67 Pall Mall
“Old vines are arks of genetic biodiversity.”
Deep in the St James’s Room, in the private cellar of 67 Pall Mall, the Old Vine Conference Trade & Media Tasting gathers its forces on a hot sticky June day. The tables flank the perimeter, and a parade of 119 old vine wines line up in perfect formation like soldiers from around the world prepared to do battle on behalf of old vines everywhere.
Within minutes the room is positively heaving with industry wine professionals to a symphonic popping of corks. There is the crunch of breadsticks, the swishing and sloshing of wine, and the spittoons were practically ringing with delight. All scrawling enthusiastically into their notebooks and warbling glorious voice notes into their iPhones that resembled sonnets along with the occasional comedy sketch.
It’s clear the Old Vines are a resounding hit. What are Old Vines, you may ask?
Old Vines are grapevines which have been producing fruit for a minimum of around 35 years, although there is no official definition as yet within the industry, with many producers also referring to vines with an age of 50, 70 or a 100 years or more. As the vine reaches maturity, (at approximately 35 years old), it starts to demonstrate noticeable physiological changes in production level and quality. The grape yield per vine tends to decrease with age, which can lead to a higher concentration and intensity of flavour within the wine, often with added complexity and expression of terroir as the root systems access deeper soil, minerals and nutrients within the landscape. These are wines which are often characterful, expressive of place and full of personality, something which its younger counterparts may struggle to replicate.
The Old Vine Conference is founded by Sarah Abbott MW and Belinda Stone, and its aim is to create a global category for Old Vine Wines from Heritage Vineyards, This is a global call to action, and a rallying cry, as the majority of old vines are at risk of being eradicated in favour of higher yielding vines with more popular well known varieties due to economic pressures.
They have cultural and historical significance not just in terms of the heritage of the region, but in the wealth of scientific benefits which have recently been recognised. The deeper complex root systems allow vines to withstand drought, heat and other environmental stressors allowing them to be more resilient and consistent within an ever-changing climate. They also have many epigenetic advantages which have been passed down from their vine ancestors, such as disease resistance, all of which are a great boon to the wine industry.
Many of these old vine plots are home to indigenous grape varieties and peoples who are wholly connected with the land and history of the region. If these plots are ripped up and replanted with more well known varieties or taken over by corporations, then we lose untold amounts of cultural and natural richness.
“Old vines are arks of genetic biodiversity,” explains Sarah Abbot MW.
The abundance of genetic diversity and wealth of valuable information captured within old vine DNA could help us tackle everything from climate change to ensuring our grapevines thrive for generations—especially when using Massale selections instead of relying solely on cloned plants. A limited gene pool is rarely a good thing, leading to reproductive problems, and the same applies to vines. A future without wine is something I doubt humanity would want to imagine.
There is also the romantic appeal of Old Vines. Often retailed as “Vieille Vignes,” there is a nostalgic delight that comes with knowing the vines were planted by generations long gone. A tangible and sensual connection to the past with an immediacy which is rarely found in other sectors.
Sarah Abbot describes these as “Balletic wines, with grace, poise, elegance, and a dancing acidity.”
Old vines are known for their ability to create richer, denser, more unique wines. At the 67 Pall Mall Tasting several things stood out amongst the selection; Sensational aromatics, depth of flavour and sumptuous textures. These are wines with personality, character and interest.
These wines were like attending a great party filled with fascinating guests—each one unique, many captivating, a few eccentric, and a handful destined to be global stars. Some had great dramatic stories of abandoned overgrown vineyards, and pre-phylloxera vines on perilous volcanic mountains, others were more humble in story but scintillating on the palate. There is some great value and interest to be found here.
How to start your own old vine journey of discovery.
1. You could support The Old Vines Conference by becoming an individual or corporate member on their site, keep up to date with events and information. Membership is a mere £20 for individuals and all goes towards furthering research and old vine tastings.
2. The Old Vine Conference is a call to action, for the global public to take part in adding Old Vine Vineyards to the Old Vine Registry database. You can contribute by submitting old vine vineyards that you are aware of that have not yet been catalogued, or if you are a vine sleuth you could even conduct your own research online and add them. The entries are moderated and verified, and they are currently offering prizes for the most submissions.
3. Seek out Old Vine wines to taste and try. Many are labelled “vieille vignes,” but there are vast number where it is not even mentioned on the label. Your wine merchant will be able to recommend wines to you based on vine age, but a good starting point is Barossa Valley in Australia or South Africa as they are strong examples of regions with a high density of great old vine wines.
